After leaving Italy, we made our way to Berlin for a few days. We met our friends Paoli, Danny, Sarah, and Samuel, who were coming from London, New York, and Paris, all to hang out in Berlin together. Originally some of us had planned to go see Radiohead and Caribou in concert in Berlin, but the show got canceled because at an earlier concert in Toronto their light display fell and killed one of their crew. They rescheduled the show for September, but we won't be flying back to Berlin in a couple months just for one concert! At least we got our money refunded though, and still had an awesome time in Berlin.
Since there were six of us, we decided to do an apartment rental through Airbnb. We stayed in this beautiful apartment in the Prenzlauer Berg neighborhood, which ended up being extremely inexpensive split between us all. The four-person family who normally lives in this apartment have a huge record collection and a nice stereo set-up that was fun to use. Here's the living room:
One day we went to the farmers market and picked up some produce for dinner. This kitchen is perfect for a big group dinner!
There were three bedrooms in the apartment, all with very cute (half Ikea/half antique) decor. Here's the master bedroom:
On our first day exploring, we ate lunch at this restaurant called Dolores, that serves "California gourmet burritos." We've figured out that it is generally a bad idea to eat any type of Mexican food in Europe (with a few notable exceptions in Barcelona and Madrid), but we had to try this place since it is modeled after the taquerias of the Mission District in San Francisco, where we lived before moving to Spain.
Inside the restaurant the walls are decorated with a public transit map of San Francisco, even showing Dolores Park, our old neighborhood hangout!
The food wasn't life-changing (it basically tasted like Chipotle, with a few more interesting sauces and serving Anchor Steam beer), but we were happy to have some recognizable form of American/Mexican food. Now that we're back home in the States, we're waiting till we get back to California before trying again. We need some Gilroy tacos! Here's me and Danny waiting in line; so excited to eat some burritos!
From most parts of central Berlin (which was part of East Berlin during the Communist rule in East Germany) you can see this gigantic TV tower, which was constructed in the 1960s and is the tallest building in Germany. Here's Sarah and Danny in front of the tower:
Berlin is a pretty cool-looking city. In the part of town where we spent most our time, there are a lot of relatively new apartment buildings mixed with more historic ones (ours dated to the 1890s) and every once in a while churches, some of which are blackened from WWII bombings. Most of the boulevards are lined with big trees, and there are a lot of parks. This is a fairly typical street in Berlin; I snapped this photo on our way out to dinner one night when it was starting to storm:
After dinner we went out to a few bars, the first of which is called White Trash Fast Food (gotta love those Europeans and their lack of political correctness). We went there to see a show featuring a surf-rock band from California that Paoli knew about. The band was good, and the inside of the venue was pretty silly. They have it decorated like a hipster T.G.I. Fridays - complete with red and white checkered table clothes, Chinese lanterns, fake pagoda facades, serving burgers and fries alongside fondue, and blended cocktails. What a mess!
After White Trash, we went to a club called Tresor where we met up with a friend of our French friend Sam. She works at Tresor, so got us in for free, which was pretty nice. The "club" is basically just a giant warehouse with several floors of extremely loud techno music, fog machines, and lights. It was not my favorite scene, but when in Berlin, you kind of have to go to a massive techno club at least once. On one of the higher up floors there was a balcony looking out into all the unused space of the building. It is crazy that a major European city has this much extra space to spare:
We didn't stay long at Tresor, followed it up by a party in what felt like a German Elks Lodge with DJs spinning old disco and new wave tunes, and eventually made our way home at about 4:30am, pretty tame for Berlin. The next morning we got up and went to the farmers market and tried Currywurst, which is a fried bratwurst sausage cut up on top of french fries with ketchup and curry powder. Invented in Berlin, Currywurst is a popular and delicious snack in Germany, and it's pretty cheap (about $3-4 for a fairly filling portion):
Later that afternoon, we walked around some more of Berlin. We went along the river and eventually end up near the remnants of the Berlin Wall. During summer it is usually really nice weather (while we were there it was sunny and thunderstorming on and off), and a lot of restaurants and bars along the river have cool outdoor seating, sometimes on the river, like this place called Watergate, which Will used to visit back when he lived here for a couple of summers:
It was pretty cool to see the Berlin Wall, which is now covered in murals and graffiti art. I didn't actually know that there were several layers of walls dividing East and West Berlin, but in some spots you can actually see two sets of walls with the "no man's land" buffer zone in between.
Berlin was about what I expected it to be, especially after having heard some much about it from WP. The Germans we talked to in Berlin were all pretty nice, and for the most part spoke almost perfect English, which works out well for people like me who automatically respond in Spanish when asked a question in any foreign language. It's "ja" not "si," d'oh!
From Berlin, we headed up to northern Germany to the island of Rügen, where people are a lot less cosmopolitan (less English spoken) and the scenery is gorgeous. After our trip up to Rügen we spent one day back in Berlin, and that's when we went to see the more iconic tourist attractions. More on that part of the trip in a couple posts!
I saw Berlin before the wall came down and after, but Will knows it way better than I do! We spray-painted the wall ("our side") like so many people did. What we painted was kind of dumb (I won't even put it down in black and white), but friends wrote "Good fences make good neighbors," which I thought was pretty good. "Something there is that doesn't love a wall..."
ReplyDeleteI think I went up in that tower. If you ever get back to Berlin (and you probably will), go see the Nefertiti bust at the Neues Museum. It's amazing. I felt like she was going to come to life. Also, if you want some quiet time there, Schloss Charlottenburg is nice -- there's the castle and formal gardens, but then there are some outbuildings behind it in meadows of wildflowers and wooded paths. Like the big warehouse-party-place, it's amazing to see that much space (and feel like you're in the wilderness) in a big city.
And I originally read this right on my email and replied there...so who knows what's going to happen to that! Maybe someone at blogspot will say, "Hey, we have another dummy who replied to the noreply!" Guilty!
See you guys soon!
Love, Aunt M.